Introduction to Khajuraho

Khajuraho, which has lent its name to a complex of exquisite Hindu and Jain
temples, is a small town located amidst the forested plains of Bundelkhand
in north central Madhya Pradesh. The beautiful temples that dot Khajuraho
are believed to have been built by the mighty Chandela rulers in the 9th and
10th century AD. The engravings on these temples are highly sensual and
erotic that depicts in graceful forms intimate scenes of the whole range of
human emotions and relationships. These sculptures congeal in stone a
lyrical paean to love and passion and reflect the Chandela dynasty's immense
appreciation for art. Architecturally, the temples are built in the north
Indian Nagara style. The sculptor/'s fine skill and a sense of imagination
have given form to human emotion in the form of spiritual and physical love.
Every façade-wall, window, pillar, and ceiling-is carved with figures
of mythical and historical origins, and while many of these depict
full-breasted, girdle-waisted women in forms of innocent play, they also
depict carnal love. In all 85 temples were built in Khajuraho, but only 22
are left to speak of the grandeur of conception of the rulers and architects
of the day. The basic ground plan of the temples of Khajuraho is almost a
textbook example of Hindu temple architecture consisting of four
compartments: an entrance porch (ardhamandap), the vestibule (antarala) and
the sanctum sanctorum (garbhagriha). In some of the large temples an extra
mandap with lateral transepts is added for size and splendour, converting it
into a large assembly hall. The temples rest on a risen open platform, a
distinctive feature of the Khajuraho temples, with subsidiary shrines at the
four corners of the platform in the bigger temples.
Places
of InterestWestern Group of Temples The
Western Group of Temples, in the heart of the town, are the most famous
temples of Khajuraho, with the mithunas (couples), gandharvas, apsaras,
vidyadaras and kinaras. The images of the apsaras are stunning, with their
sensuous poses and liquid movements. There are the unforgettable images of a
maiden adorning herself before a mirror, applying kohl on her eyes, plaiting
her long hair, removing a thorn from her foot. The erotic images, almost
acrobatic orgiastic scenes have been associated with Tantric rituals and
practices. However, it's not so much the sexual aspect but the grace,
energy and feeling that strikes one most about these images. The eyes, the
face and the body are poetry of pure emotive movement. The Kandariya Mahadeo
is the biggest and most stunning temple, with its 800 statues of gods and
goddesses, the marble lingam and the ceiling that rises 31 metres high. It
is considered the most evolved example of central Indian temple. The Lakshmana Temple has friezes of battle scenes and
erotic poses, depicting both sides of the Chandela warriors' lives. In fact,
the eight figures on each column are supposed to represent each sect of the
Tantric cult. The finely carved inner sanctum has a three-headed idol of
Vishnu/'s incarnations, Narasimha and Varaha. The Varaha Temple has a
9-feet-high image of the boar incarnation of Vishnu, gorgeously carved with
474 images. The Chitragupta Temple is dedicated to the Sun God, and has many
group scenes of royal processions, hunting, and dancing that reflect the
lavish lifestyle of the Chandela courts. The Devi Jagdamba Temple has a
gorgeous image of Parvati. It is perhaps the most erotic temple of this city. The temple houses most talked-about image, mithuna,
and the sensuously carved figures. However, till today it is not clear as to
which deity this temple is dedicated. The Matangesvara Temple has a
2.5-metre-high polished lingam of Shiva. This is the only temple that is
actively used for worship. The temple of Vishvanath and Nandi celebrates the
marriage of Lord Shiva with Parvati. The temple draws attention by its
provocative depiction of women. Chaunsath Yogini is dedicated to goddesses
Kali. It is the oldest of the surviving temples. The only
temple in Khajuraho to be built of granite, the name of the temple is
derived from the cells of 64 attendants of Goddess Kali (chaunsath:
sixty-four). The gardens around the Western temples are picturesque and
become a spectacle of colour and light during dance festival.
Eastern
Group of Temples The Eastern temples are partly Jain and partly
Hindu. The most striking is the Parsvanath Temple, with its exquisite
sculptures depicting everyday activity. There is a bull-emblem of the first
Tirthankara, Adinath. It is a fine instance of sensitive art without any
sexual motifs. In the vicinity of this temple is the temple of Adinath,
which has some fine carvings. The temple is structurally similar to the
Hindu temples of Khajuraho. In fact, it is this Jain-Hindu combination that
is singularly interesting about the Eastern Group of temples. Only a century
old, Shantinath is the most recent of all the temples. Visited
by the Digambar Jains, the temple houses a four and a half metre statue of
Adinath. The Ghantai Temple, mostly in ruins now, has fine columns and
chains and bells, with a figure of a Jain goddess on a garuda. Mainly built
of granite and sandstone, the temple of Brahma and Hanuman is one of the
oldest temples. Strange though it may seem, the temple is
actually dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Close by is a Hanuman temple reputed to
have the earliest inscription dating back to AD 922 on a 2½-metre
statue. The Javari and Vamana are two other notable temples of the Eastern
Group.
Southern Group of Temples The
southern group of temples contains only two temples. The Duladeo Temple
apparently is newer of the two and was built at a time when the creativity
of Khajuraho was well below its peak. The other is the Chaturbhuj Temple,
located far from the village. The temple houses a three-metre-high statue of
Vishnu.
Excursion: Places nearby Khajuraho
Ajaygarh Fort The Ajaygarh Fort is a distance of 80
km from this city. Built at a height of 688 metres, it was the capital of
the Chandelas in their declining years. Another fort is Kalinjar, located on
the Vindhya Range at a distance of 100 km. Built during the Gupta period,
the fort was captured by Shri Yashovarman, the Chandela king, in the 10th
century.
Bandhavgarh Bandhavgarh, around
237 km from it is situated in the heart of the Vindhya Mountain
range. The landscape here is dominated by the 14th-century Bandhavgarh Fort.
Besides the fort, there are a large number of caves with inscriptions dating
back to the prehistoric period. However, Bandhavgarh is gaining popularity
in recent times because of its national park. The first white tiger was
sighted here in 1951.
Dhubela Museum
Dhubela Museum is located in a fort, 64 km away. The museum
houses a wide variety of sculpture of the Shakti cult. There are also
garments, weapons, and paintings of the Bundela kings.
Pandav
Falls On the Ken River is Pandav Falls, 30 km. It
is believed that the Pandavas spent some years of their exile here, hence
the name. Another waterfall, the Ranch, is situated at a distance of 25 km
from the Pandav Falls.
Panna National Park
Panna (40 km) is a historical city famous for its temples. It was the
erstwhile capital of the Bundela kingdom. However, today it is more renowned
for the Panna National Park that is spread over 546 km on the bank of the
Ken River. An ideal place for wildlife lovers, the park is visited by
thousands of tourists every year. The best time to visit the park is early
morning, and drive in an open jeep through the thick, wild vegetation. You
can see a variety of birds (blossom-headed parakeet, red-belted cap wing,
weaver, tree-pie), antelopes, chinkaras, sambars, and boars. And if you are
lucky enough, you can also catch sight of the elusive tiger. Panna also has
one of the most famous diamond mines of the world at Majhganwa. The Panna
mines are the only working diamond mines in India and the largest in Asia.
Raigarh Palace The Rajgarh Palace is at the
foot of Maniyagarh hills, around 25 km far. Around 150 years old,
the palace has been converted into a heritage hotel.