
The
Bada Imambada is an important tourist attraction of Lucknow. It was built by
the erstwhile Nawab of Lucknow to provide succor to the famine stricken
people. Though it began as a charitable project, yet the large halls,
vaulted galleries, and an intriguing labyrinth of interconnected passages
within it make it an amazing edifice.
When Asaf-ud-daula moved to
Lucknow in 1777, he spent huge sums of money on new buildings to outshine
the Mughal splendor. The great Imambada, symbol of Lucknow's fabulous
architectural heritage, was built at a time when a great famine raged
through the state in 1784. Hundreds of men and women thronged to the city as
utter destitute. Even the rich and noble were reduced to beg for food.
Asaf-ud-daula hit upon a novel plan to help the poor. He decided to build
the great Imambada and employed some 22,000 people to work day and night.
One fourth of the day's work was demolished at night against payment. Thus,
there was enough work. The names of the nobles were called out at night for
payments to spare them the indignity of working with the masses.
Asaf-ud-daula had a charitable disposition almost to a fault. He would have
jewels inserted into muskmelons before distribution among the poor.
The Bada Imambada is, in fact, a great hall built at the end of a
spectacular courtyard approached through two magnificent triple-arched
gateways. This columnless hall has been an architectural marvel since 1784,
with the interior length of 49.4 m and width of 16.2 m. The ceiling is more
than 15 m high. The hall is Asia's largest without any external support of
wood, iron, or stone beams. What leaves the visitor astonished is the
construction of the roof. It is said to be 16 feet thick and weighs nearly
20,000 tons. One would fail to find out how this amazing work was
accomplished without any recourse to known technology: there are no steel
girders or beams to uphold the mammoth ceiling.
An ingenious
method was employed for building the roof. This immense building is covered
with vaults of very simple forms and still simpler construction, being of
rubble or coarse concrete of bricks and mud, and allowed to stand a year or
two to set and dry. The centering is then removed and the vault, being in
one piece, stands without abutment or thrust, apparently a better and more
durable form of roof than the most scientific Gothic vaulting. It is
certainly far cheaper and easily made, since it is literally cast on mud,
from which may be molded into any shape the fancy of the architect may
dictate. The Gol Gumbaz at Bijapur and the massive dome of the Taj Mahal
were raised on the same kind of brick and rubble centering.
There
are, in fact, three halls under the same roof. The Persian Hall is the
central hall simply astonishing in proportions. The two adjoining halls are
equally great. The China Hall is square at ground level, becomes octagonal
at mid-height, and 16 sided at the top. The India Hall has been fashioned
like a watermelon. These are only minor structural variations. The roof,
common to these halls, is flat and in one piece. The Persian architect,
Kifait-ullah supervised this unique architectural extravaganza. The
acoustics are equally marvelous. Even the slightest whisper can be heard at
the other corner of the hall. Light a matchstick and you can hear the sound
across the length of the hall.
On the top terrace, approached
through a narrow flight of steps, is an amazing set of passages designed to
confuse the most alert minds-a labyrinth of interconnected passages that
seem to lead nowhere. This is called bhul bhulaiya (maze), which adds an
element of wonder to the construction. There are about 1,000 narrow passages
where the air is trapped for cross ventilation. This labyrinth served the
important purpose of supporting the thick walls of the Imambada, which, in
turn, bore the brunt of the mammoth roof. A visitor who has dispensed with
the services of a guide may find it rather embarrassing to lose his way. The
terrace gives a grand view of old Lucknow with numerous mosques and minarets
on the horizon.
Also known as the Chhota, or Small
Imambara, This was built by Mohammed Ali Shah in 1837 as his own mausoleum.
Thousands of labourers worked on the project to gain famine relief. The
large courtyard encloses a raised rectangular tank with small imitations of
the Taj Mahal on each side. one of them is the tomb of Mohammed Ali Shah
daughter, the other that of her husband. The main building of the imambara,
topped by a golden dome, contains the tombs of ali Shah and his mother.
Opposite the Hussainabad Imambara is Satkhanda and also known as Sven Storey
Tower. A 67m-high defunct clock tower, overlooks the Hussainabad Tank
nearby. West of the Hussainabad Imambara is the Jama Masjid which was
started by Mohammed Ali Shah and Completed after his Death.
Built in 1800 for the British Resident,
this group of buildings became the stage for the the most dramatic events of
the 1857 Uprising the Siege of Lucknow. The red-brick ruins are peaceful now
a days, surrounded by lawns and flowerbeds, but thousands died during the
months-long siege. The Residency has been maintaind as it was at the time of
the final relief, and the shattered walls are still scarred by cannon shot.
Even since Independence, little has changed. The only major work done on the
place was the unveiling of an Indian Martyrs Memorial directely opposite.
you can see cellars in the main Residency building where many of the women
and children lived throughout the siege. The cemetery at the nearby ruined
church has the graves of 2000 men, women and children, including that of Sir
Henry Lawrence, 'who tried to do his duty' according to the famous
inscription on his weathered gravestone.